iedgar10
I recently bought an iDJ3 and have fallen in love with it. However, I originally bought the iDJ3 just to see if this really was a hobby I wanted to get into and am now ready to upgrade. What I ideally want is to replace my iDj3 with two turn tables, time coded vinyls and a mixer. I managed to get my hands on a second hand mint condition Stanton t62 for $90. At the moment I thought it was a really good deal considering I have seen them retail for $199 at bestbuy.
Now, the conundrum-
Since I'm currently testing VDJ PRO (and I love it. I plan to fork over the money after my 20day trial is gone) I've also started looking up my time coded setup. Here is what I originally wanted/ was hesitantly willing to spend money on:
2 x Used Stanton T62 turntables
1 x Stanton M212 Mixer OR 1x Numark M2 Mixer
1 x Maya44 sound card
2 x Serato timecoded vinylx
I estimated this to run me at around $450
HOWEVER, I've been browsing though a bunch of dj equipment sites lately and noticed that Numark made a turntable combo called the iBattlepack!
This would cost/require
1 x iBattlepack
1 x maya44 sound card
2 x serato timecoded vinyl
approximate cost: $450
So the question now is which sould I get and do both of these set ups work just as well with vdj pro?
Yes, I already have a stanton t62 turn table but they'll both be second hand as opposed to brand new. I don't really need any ipod feature as I have yet to use it. But, I guess having the feature there doesn't hurt.
What do you guys think is the best thing for me to upgrade to? Or do you guys think I should take a different path of upgrading? I don't have a budget greater than $500 + $200 for VDJ upgrade! I'm only a student! haha
Thanks so much!
Now, the conundrum-
Since I'm currently testing VDJ PRO (and I love it. I plan to fork over the money after my 20day trial is gone) I've also started looking up my time coded setup. Here is what I originally wanted/ was hesitantly willing to spend money on:
2 x Used Stanton T62 turntables
1 x Stanton M212 Mixer OR 1x Numark M2 Mixer
1 x Maya44 sound card
2 x Serato timecoded vinylx
I estimated this to run me at around $450
HOWEVER, I've been browsing though a bunch of dj equipment sites lately and noticed that Numark made a turntable combo called the iBattlepack!
This would cost/require
1 x iBattlepack
1 x maya44 sound card
2 x serato timecoded vinyl
approximate cost: $450
So the question now is which sould I get and do both of these set ups work just as well with vdj pro?
Yes, I already have a stanton t62 turn table but they'll both be second hand as opposed to brand new. I don't really need any ipod feature as I have yet to use it. But, I guess having the feature there doesn't hurt.
What do you guys think is the best thing for me to upgrade to? Or do you guys think I should take a different path of upgrading? I don't have a budget greater than $500 + $200 for VDJ upgrade! I'm only a student! haha
Thanks so much!
Posté Tue 30 Aug 11 @ 8:55 pm
MAGAGAR80
This is what I suggest.
I think rather than buying cheaper stanton or numark turntables you should check out craigslist or ebay and pick up a used Technics 1200 for $250-300. If you want stanton tables get T120s or 150s, it you want numarks get TT500s or TTXs. Spend the bulk of your money on quality turntables, I would stick with technics they are tanks and if anything ever happens to them everybody and their mommas knows how to fix them.
Even if you just get 1 turntable you still have the stanton turntable you picked up giving you 2 turntables. But are you aware you can control your decks with just 1 turntable using the TAB key on yout keyboard to switch between decks? So in reality all you need is one turntable.
My cheap suggestion would be to use what you already have just add one of the following
Numark Virtual Vinyl kit (Same as Virtual DJ Pro just distributed under the numark brand comes bundled with a sound card) $250 on ebay
I would use the Numark IDJ3 to control the mixer functions and do time code with the stanton turntable.
My Ideal turntable setup bellow $500.00
Setup 1
1 Technics 1200 250 to 300 used
1 Hercules RMX (has built in sound card no need for the Maya44) $250 on ebay new. Hercules comes with VDJ LE that you can upgrade to pro for $150.00 (half off the $300.00 VDJ Pro price)
Total setup $500 to 550 + $150 for VDJ pro upgrade
Setup 2
1 Technics 1200 250 to 300 used
1 Vestax VCM-100 (Has a built in Maya44 sound card that will allow you to do time code) $250 new on ebay, I bought mine used for $100.00.
I love the quality build of the VCM-100, feels much better than the RMX however the VCM-100 comes bundled with Traktor LE so you will not be eligible for any discount on Virtual DJ Pro. Also the VCM-100 comes with less MIDI controls than the RMX.
Total Setup $500 to $550 + $300 for Virtual DJ Pro
This 2 setups are my favorites due to the fact that the controllers have built in sound cards and it allows you the flexibility of keeping is portable by using the controllers alone or you can use the whole big setup with the turntables.
Setup 3
1 Technics 1200 250 to 300 used
1 good used 2 channel mixer for $100.00 on ebay
1 Numark Virtual Vinyl (Same as Virtual DJ just distributed by Numark) $250.00
Total setup $600.00 with software, probably the cheapest option when you add the software but you don't get the portability of a MIDI controller.
Other good affordable DJ Midi controllers to consider adding to your turntable setup would be a Hercules MK4 or MK2, the only drawback is that they are plastic controllers but they are very reliable and the give you a $100.00 discount towards Virtual DJ Pro. These cost about $160 new on ebay, I just picked up a used MK4 on ebay for $80.00. You get your mixer controls with built in sound cards that allows you to do time codes. I would suggest buying a new one if you want to make sure you get the VDJ discount because if you buy it used you are taking a chance that the previous owner already upgraded the serial.
Bottom line is that I think you should not go cheap on the turntables if you want to do time codes with turntables.
Hopes this helps.
I think rather than buying cheaper stanton or numark turntables you should check out craigslist or ebay and pick up a used Technics 1200 for $250-300. If you want stanton tables get T120s or 150s, it you want numarks get TT500s or TTXs. Spend the bulk of your money on quality turntables, I would stick with technics they are tanks and if anything ever happens to them everybody and their mommas knows how to fix them.
Even if you just get 1 turntable you still have the stanton turntable you picked up giving you 2 turntables. But are you aware you can control your decks with just 1 turntable using the TAB key on yout keyboard to switch between decks? So in reality all you need is one turntable.
My cheap suggestion would be to use what you already have just add one of the following
Numark Virtual Vinyl kit (Same as Virtual DJ Pro just distributed under the numark brand comes bundled with a sound card) $250 on ebay
I would use the Numark IDJ3 to control the mixer functions and do time code with the stanton turntable.
My Ideal turntable setup bellow $500.00
Setup 1
1 Technics 1200 250 to 300 used
1 Hercules RMX (has built in sound card no need for the Maya44) $250 on ebay new. Hercules comes with VDJ LE that you can upgrade to pro for $150.00 (half off the $300.00 VDJ Pro price)
Total setup $500 to 550 + $150 for VDJ pro upgrade
Setup 2
1 Technics 1200 250 to 300 used
1 Vestax VCM-100 (Has a built in Maya44 sound card that will allow you to do time code) $250 new on ebay, I bought mine used for $100.00.
I love the quality build of the VCM-100, feels much better than the RMX however the VCM-100 comes bundled with Traktor LE so you will not be eligible for any discount on Virtual DJ Pro. Also the VCM-100 comes with less MIDI controls than the RMX.
Total Setup $500 to $550 + $300 for Virtual DJ Pro
This 2 setups are my favorites due to the fact that the controllers have built in sound cards and it allows you the flexibility of keeping is portable by using the controllers alone or you can use the whole big setup with the turntables.
Setup 3
1 Technics 1200 250 to 300 used
1 good used 2 channel mixer for $100.00 on ebay
1 Numark Virtual Vinyl (Same as Virtual DJ just distributed by Numark) $250.00
Total setup $600.00 with software, probably the cheapest option when you add the software but you don't get the portability of a MIDI controller.
Other good affordable DJ Midi controllers to consider adding to your turntable setup would be a Hercules MK4 or MK2, the only drawback is that they are plastic controllers but they are very reliable and the give you a $100.00 discount towards Virtual DJ Pro. These cost about $160 new on ebay, I just picked up a used MK4 on ebay for $80.00. You get your mixer controls with built in sound cards that allows you to do time codes. I would suggest buying a new one if you want to make sure you get the VDJ discount because if you buy it used you are taking a chance that the previous owner already upgraded the serial.
Bottom line is that I think you should not go cheap on the turntables if you want to do time codes with turntables.
Hopes this helps.
Posté Wed 31 Aug 11 @ 12:06 am
iedgar10
Thank you so much! you are awesome!
I am currently looking thought my options for a technics 1200. There seem to be A LOT of different models in the 1200 series. Is there a place where I can find the production timeline for these? Or can you name a few different models, their age, and how much YOU would be willing to spend on them used?
Also, for your first setup
"Setup 1
1 Technics 1200 250 to 300 used
1 Hercules RMX (has built in sound card no need for the Maya44) $250 on ebay new. Hercules comes with VDJ LE that you can upgrade to pro for $150.00 (half off the $300.00 VDJ Pro price)
Total setup $500 to 550 + $150 for VDJ pro upgrade "
I could continue to use my iDJ3 as my mixer as opposed to having to buy a dedicated 2 channel mixer? Would the jog wheels continue to work on the idj3 or would the turntables override the existence of the idj3 jogwheels?
I am currently looking thought my options for a technics 1200. There seem to be A LOT of different models in the 1200 series. Is there a place where I can find the production timeline for these? Or can you name a few different models, their age, and how much YOU would be willing to spend on them used?
Also, for your first setup
"Setup 1
1 Technics 1200 250 to 300 used
1 Hercules RMX (has built in sound card no need for the Maya44) $250 on ebay new. Hercules comes with VDJ LE that you can upgrade to pro for $150.00 (half off the $300.00 VDJ Pro price)
Total setup $500 to 550 + $150 for VDJ pro upgrade "
I could continue to use my iDJ3 as my mixer as opposed to having to buy a dedicated 2 channel mixer? Would the jog wheels continue to work on the idj3 or would the turntables override the existence of the idj3 jogwheels?
Posté Wed 31 Aug 11 @ 1:01 pm
iedgar10
I just realized using the idj3 as a mixer when having the Hercules RMX would be redundant considering the RMX is a mixer... haha
So if i buy the RMX i would be buying a 2in1 solution (the sound card + mixer), correct?
Also, would the RMX be something you would consider buying used or are these prone to breaking enough that it's worth buying a new one?
So if i buy the RMX i would be buying a 2in1 solution (the sound card + mixer), correct?
Also, would the RMX be something you would consider buying used or are these prone to breaking enough that it's worth buying a new one?
Posté Wed 31 Aug 11 @ 1:04 pm
iedgar10
Update: I've been searching for Technics 1200s but the fact that they're being discontinued is making their price become inflated. The lowest I've seen them is for 200 used on ebay with days left til the end of the auction. So, I'm pretty sure they're going to go for a lot more- which I don't have lol
Posté Wed 31 Aug 11 @ 9:53 pm
MAGAGAR80
iedgar10 wrote :
I just realized using the idj3 as a mixer when having the Hercules RMX would be redundant considering the RMX is a mixer... haha
So if i buy the RMX i would be buying a 2in1 solution (the sound card + mixer), correct?
Also, would the RMX be something you would consider buying used or are these prone to breaking enough that it's worth buying a new one?
So if i buy the RMX i would be buying a 2in1 solution (the sound card + mixer), correct?
Also, would the RMX be something you would consider buying used or are these prone to breaking enough that it's worth buying a new one?
Correct RMX is a midi mixer with built in sound card, 2 in 1 solution.
Posté Wed 31 Aug 11 @ 11:54 pm
MAGAGAR80
iedgar10 wrote :
Update: I've been searching for Technics 1200s but the fact that they're being discontinued is making their price become inflated. The lowest I've seen them is for 200 used on ebay with days left til the end of the auction. So, I'm pretty sure they're going to go for a lot more- which I don't have lol
Stick to technics 1200mk2 or even 1200m3d, those will be on the lower price range and honestly I don't see the point of having some mk5s it's only higher prices for a few minor upgrades.
Also be patient, yes they are a bit inflated but I see them for 250 to 300 regularly on craigslist, just check it every day to check out any new deals.
Posté Wed 31 Aug 11 @ 11:58 pm
iedgar10
You're right. Thanks for the avice. I'll save up more money, buy well, and hopefully buy once. Well, at least for a few years worth haha
Posté Thu 01 Sep 11 @ 7:27 pm
iedgar10
ps- What's the most you would pay for two used technic sl2000mk2s in good condition?
Posté Thu 01 Sep 11 @ 7:29 pm
the SOUND INSURGENT
Id say between 750 & 850, for a good used set. Check eBay, Craigslist and your local crackheads, lol! Foreal though I got a set from one for 250!!
Good Luck
Huey
Good Luck
Huey
Posté Thu 01 Sep 11 @ 7:47 pm
iedgar10
Thanks! :)
I keep that as my limit on them for now if i happen to spot the pair for sale.
A quick question on speakers although I'm not sure if I'm allowed to ask that here.
BACKGROUND:
I bough a Behringer 212D because I read a lot of reviews and it seems to be the speaker that gives you the most for your money in the sub $300USD range. Overall, I'm very happy with the speaker and the sound quality. However, for the last atleast 8 years I've been listening to music on either my iPod or my Logitech Z680 that my dad bought me a very very long time ago so I don't know if I've just never listened to a good system. I've been happy with my Z680, though. THE ONLY thing I don't like about the 212D is that I don't get that much boom. I feel like the bass is too tight and so instead of getting a "BOOOOOOOOOM", you get a "boom." I find this weird because my Z680 has an 8inch sub and it feels a lot more powerful than the 212D. The 212D single speaker does get A LOT louder thant the Z680 as a whole...just no boom. So because of this, in addition to another 212D I wanted to get a powered sub. OR, i wanted to get an amp and a passive sub and just add speakers to the amp later.
The QUESTION:
My dad gave me a pair of old Alpine SWE 1241 car subs he had for a while now. He hasn't used them in forever but I'm pretty sure they work. I understand that car speakers run have a 4ohm resistance and most non-car amps run in 8ohms. Is there any amp that I can buy/you guys recommend that can run in both 4ohm and 8ohms? Or can i just get any amp and run the speakers in series to get the 8ohms? If I DO run the speakers in series I would technically be splitting the voltage in half for each speaker so would I have to get an amp with double the required voltage for the subs?
the quick facts:
I have a behringer 212d.
I have 2 alpine 12inch car subs.
I want an amp to run the 2 x12 alpine subs.
Concerned about running Alpines in series and voltage drop accross a series connection.
Thank you guys! Sorry for writing so much!
PS- I have read other places saying that running in series is okay but nobody ever brings up the fact that in a series circuit voltage is proportionally divided in a series circuit. ALSO, i have understood that cars run in 12volts where as home outlets provide 120volts.
Any help/insight would, again, be greatly appreciated!
I keep that as my limit on them for now if i happen to spot the pair for sale.
A quick question on speakers although I'm not sure if I'm allowed to ask that here.
BACKGROUND:
I bough a Behringer 212D because I read a lot of reviews and it seems to be the speaker that gives you the most for your money in the sub $300USD range. Overall, I'm very happy with the speaker and the sound quality. However, for the last atleast 8 years I've been listening to music on either my iPod or my Logitech Z680 that my dad bought me a very very long time ago so I don't know if I've just never listened to a good system. I've been happy with my Z680, though. THE ONLY thing I don't like about the 212D is that I don't get that much boom. I feel like the bass is too tight and so instead of getting a "BOOOOOOOOOM", you get a "boom." I find this weird because my Z680 has an 8inch sub and it feels a lot more powerful than the 212D. The 212D single speaker does get A LOT louder thant the Z680 as a whole...just no boom. So because of this, in addition to another 212D I wanted to get a powered sub. OR, i wanted to get an amp and a passive sub and just add speakers to the amp later.
The QUESTION:
My dad gave me a pair of old Alpine SWE 1241 car subs he had for a while now. He hasn't used them in forever but I'm pretty sure they work. I understand that car speakers run have a 4ohm resistance and most non-car amps run in 8ohms. Is there any amp that I can buy/you guys recommend that can run in both 4ohm and 8ohms? Or can i just get any amp and run the speakers in series to get the 8ohms? If I DO run the speakers in series I would technically be splitting the voltage in half for each speaker so would I have to get an amp with double the required voltage for the subs?
the quick facts:
I have a behringer 212d.
I have 2 alpine 12inch car subs.
I want an amp to run the 2 x12 alpine subs.
Concerned about running Alpines in series and voltage drop accross a series connection.
Thank you guys! Sorry for writing so much!
PS- I have read other places saying that running in series is okay but nobody ever brings up the fact that in a series circuit voltage is proportionally divided in a series circuit. ALSO, i have understood that cars run in 12volts where as home outlets provide 120volts.
Any help/insight would, again, be greatly appreciated!
Posté Thu 01 Sep 11 @ 8:46 pm
iedgar10
Here are the specs for the alpines
http://www.cartoys.com/Products/product.cfm/carstereo/SWE_1241_12in_Subwoofer?rdr=t
http://www.cartoys.com/Products/product.cfm/carstereo/SWE_1241_12in_Subwoofer?rdr=t
Posté Thu 01 Sep 11 @ 8:49 pm
iedgar10
So i was dissuaded from using the alpine's on another forum lol
As for my Stanton t62 that i already bought, I bought ONE Michael Jackson vinly just to hear it (not for djing) and I was appauld by the lack of quality in the audio. First, i figured it was the lack of ground (there was a buzz). So i grounded it to one of the screws on my behringer 212D. The buzz was gone. But, there was still a lot of distortion and the first track on the outermost part of the vinyl would cause the needle to skip to the middle of the song. So, I adjusted the counterweight. That fixed the skipping issue but there is still distoriton in the sound; it sounds like there is a lot of static. If i stop the turntable I can't hear any static coming out of the speaker so I'm assuming it has something to do with the signal coming from the turntable.
Any ideas? I bought the turn table used but it looks like it's new. I also looked at the need and I could see the tiny little pin coming from the stylus. The stylus however, is not firm meaning that if i touch the needle the stylus sinks into the cartridge. Is this normal? Or should the stylus be firm in place?
As for my Stanton t62 that i already bought, I bought ONE Michael Jackson vinly just to hear it (not for djing) and I was appauld by the lack of quality in the audio. First, i figured it was the lack of ground (there was a buzz). So i grounded it to one of the screws on my behringer 212D. The buzz was gone. But, there was still a lot of distortion and the first track on the outermost part of the vinyl would cause the needle to skip to the middle of the song. So, I adjusted the counterweight. That fixed the skipping issue but there is still distoriton in the sound; it sounds like there is a lot of static. If i stop the turntable I can't hear any static coming out of the speaker so I'm assuming it has something to do with the signal coming from the turntable.
Any ideas? I bought the turn table used but it looks like it's new. I also looked at the need and I could see the tiny little pin coming from the stylus. The stylus however, is not firm meaning that if i touch the needle the stylus sinks into the cartridge. Is this normal? Or should the stylus be firm in place?
Posté Fri 02 Sep 11 @ 9:21 pm
djnutz
iedgar10 wrote :
So i was dissuaded from using the alpine's on another forum lol
As for my Stanton t62 that i already bought, I bought ONE Michael Jackson vinly just to hear it (not for djing) and I was appauld by the lack of quality in the audio. First, i figured it was the lack of ground (there was a buzz). So i grounded it to one of the screws on my behringer 212D. The buzz was gone. But, there was still a lot of distortion and the first track on the outermost part of the vinyl would cause the needle to skip to the middle of the song. So, I adjusted the counterweight. That fixed the skipping issue but there is still distoriton in the sound; it sounds like there is a lot of static. If i stop the turntable I can't hear any static coming out of the speaker so I'm assuming it has something to do with the signal coming from the turntable.
Any ideas? I bought the turn table used but it looks like it's new. I also looked at the need and I could see the tiny little pin coming from the stylus. The stylus however, is not firm meaning that if i touch the needle the stylus sinks into the cartridge. Is this normal? Or should the stylus be firm in place?
As for my Stanton t62 that i already bought, I bought ONE Michael Jackson vinly just to hear it (not for djing) and I was appauld by the lack of quality in the audio. First, i figured it was the lack of ground (there was a buzz). So i grounded it to one of the screws on my behringer 212D. The buzz was gone. But, there was still a lot of distortion and the first track on the outermost part of the vinyl would cause the needle to skip to the middle of the song. So, I adjusted the counterweight. That fixed the skipping issue but there is still distoriton in the sound; it sounds like there is a lot of static. If i stop the turntable I can't hear any static coming out of the speaker so I'm assuming it has something to do with the signal coming from the turntable.
Any ideas? I bought the turn table used but it looks like it's new. I also looked at the need and I could see the tiny little pin coming from the stylus. The stylus however, is not firm meaning that if i touch the needle the stylus sinks into the cartridge. Is this normal? Or should the stylus be firm in place?
Wow, um, ok. First thing: Don't go out and buy ANY piece of gear because someone on a forum told you to. That being said, asking for the opinions of others on a specific piece of gear is a good idea, as long as the source is an ACTUAL USER. Technic made a great product that was once and still sometimes is considered the industry standard for DJ turntables. Do you NEED a set of 1200's to DJ? No, you don't. What you need is something that WORKS and WORKS EVERY TIME. In this business, there aren't many second chances. New gear comes out all the time and it isn't anywhere near the build quality of a Technic 1200 (I doubt you will find a lot of NS7's in operation 30 years from now...). The last thing you want to have happen is a major gear malfunction in the middle of a show.
If you don't currently have the funds to INVEST in QUALITY gear, then:
DON'T!
Save your money until you CAN buy decent gear. And before you rush out and spend your $450 on a setup, try to find a store or person who has the gear you are interested in and get your hands on it. It can look cool on a website or in a magazine, but if it doesn't FEEL right, then you wasted your money. Here is a good analogy:
I have an 18' Lund fishing boat with a Mercury40. It is not the biggest boat, fastest boat, nor the most expensive boat on the lake, but I can catch just as many fish as the guy who spent 3 times on his boat as what I spent on my boat and tackle combined. What it is though, is a tried and trusted piece of equipment that gets the job done EVERY TIME without all the bells and whistles the big expensive boat has.
I run 2 Numark NDX400's and a Numark M3 mixer. I could have spent twice as much for the NDX800 and had midi capabilities from my decks. I chose to save the money and got the 400's and I also got 2 Akai LPD8's. For sound, I am actually running 2 Numark DJ I/O cards. One for each deck.
My laptop is the $300 Compaq they sell at Walmart. Then I went to a local computer store and bought more memory.
I could have spent more to go up a level with all my gear, but it really wasn't necessary. I was able to get hands on with everything prior to buying. I also saved my money and did my research before jumping on the first turntable I saw on Craigslist. The point of all this rambling is just cool your jets a little bit. Don't be in such a hurry to get all this gear; NONE of it will make you a DJ. You can't buy talent, time, or experience in ANY store. Starting a bonfire with gasoline makes for an impressive display, but unless you have built the fire properly and with the right materials, it isn't gonna last very long...
To your point about the static, vinyl has that "warm" sound that sometimes includes little pops and sounds, especially when played through something like that 212D. The speaker has really good clarity for it's price. My opinion of it is it even sounds a bit shrill through the midrange. It surely will make the hissing sound of vinyl much more pronounced.
To the needle question, there should be some movement in the needle. If the needle was completely stiff, the arm would have to be really heavy to keep the needle from jumping out of the groove. With that higher tracking force, you would wear out needles AND the vinyl pretty quickly. Also, the needle needs to vibrate in order to convert the undulations in the groove to the sounds you hear coming form the speakers. Now if the needle pushes up inside the cartridge and stays up there, it sound like it might be time for a new cart altogether. If you are unsure or unclear about that, take the whole turntable to your local music shop and have someone show you how to troubleshoot and fix it.
Posté Sat 03 Sep 11 @ 9:45 am
iedgar10
"Starting a bonfire with gasoline makes for an impressive display, but unless you have built the fire properly and with the right materials, it isn't gonna last very long"
Aside from all the other technical help i've gotten so far from everybody, I think that that is the best advice I've gotten so far.
It's great that there is such a strong online community to help others that are just starting out. :)
In other news, I looked up the Numark NDX400 you said you used as well as other CDJs. I also found out there timecoded vinyls exist. I was wondering, for those who have used both turntables and CDJs, what the pros and cons of each are or if the main difference was just the format and the feel of each setup.
Aside from all the other technical help i've gotten so far from everybody, I think that that is the best advice I've gotten so far.
It's great that there is such a strong online community to help others that are just starting out. :)
In other news, I looked up the Numark NDX400 you said you used as well as other CDJs. I also found out there timecoded vinyls exist. I was wondering, for those who have used both turntables and CDJs, what the pros and cons of each are or if the main difference was just the format and the feel of each setup.
Posté Sat 03 Sep 11 @ 10:37 am
djnutz
Turntables are heavier in many cases. CDJ's lighter. Needles and carts can be fragile, so can laser heads in CDJ's. You can't press your own vinyl without a lot of equipment, you can buy blank cdr's just about anywhere. For me, if my computer crashes, the NDX400 can play directly from a usb thumb drive. I keep a couple loaded with the top tunes and if I were to have a problem, I flip a switch on the input of the mixer and bam, I'm playing from the USB. That easy. Since I have 2 soundcards, 2 midi controllers, and 2 CDJ's, I have built in redundancy. I can lose one or even 2 pieces and still get through the night.
Posté Sat 03 Sep 11 @ 11:49 am
iedgar10
Do you use timecoded CDr to control the music on your computer? How well do they work? In your opinion are they just as accurate as timecoded vinyls? Are CDJ lasers expensive to replace? I was looking at turntable cartridges and needs and they're not the cheapest things in the world. *sigh* Also, from what I've gathered it seems that turntables are more fragile and require more maintenance overall then a CDJ would. Would you agree?
haha i'm sorry for drilling you with so many questions. I really appreciate the help.
haha i'm sorry for drilling you with so many questions. I really appreciate the help.
Posté Sat 03 Sep 11 @ 12:34 pm
djnutz
When a laser goes out on a CDJ, 9 times out of 10, it can't be repaired, or the cost to repair it ends up being more than the cost of buying a new unit. I do use timecode cd to control my music. When it is configured properly, it works with no issues. The soundcards I have are considered to be pretty entry level, and they really don't have a latency that is suited for heavy scratching, but I don't scratch so it really isn't an issue for me.
Turntables do require a little more care and feeding than other pieces of gear, but like anything, if you take good care of it, it will last a long time. Whatever you choose to buy, invest in good quality cases for transport. I have a TSA approved case, which means I can check my case as luggage on an airplane. I have seen guys transport their gear in the original cardboard boxes and I shudder to think what would happen if they either dropped it, or dropped something on top of it.
As technology has advanced, the cost of getting into this business has become much cheaper. My opinion is that has changed the view of the DJ business. It is a much less "exclusive" club now. A 14 year old kid can download the free home version of VDJ and steal a bunch of music from file sharing sites and all of a sudden he is calling himself a DJ. When I was 14, I DJ'd MY first gig. I used my home stereo patched into a rented PA. I played MY cd's that I PAID for. I joined Colombia House, and BMG and I mowed lawns and shoveled snow to pay for it. Now, 22 years later, if a person were to duplicate my library by buying from Itunes, they would have to invest $15,000. I don't know any 14 year olds with a spare 15 grand laying around.
My advice to you would be to contact the DJ companies in your area and tell them you want to learn the DJ business. Offer to be a roadie for them for free. Then shut your mouth and open your eyes and ears and soak up as much information as you possibly can before you just jump in feet first. There is always plenty of DJ work to be had from bars and clubs to weddings and school dances and everything inbetween. Make friends with as many of the DJ's in your area as you can and you will be surprised how much they help each other out. One guy is booked for a date and someone calls, I can guarantee you he will refer them to another DJ with who he has a solid business relationship.
Last thing, remember that this is a BUSINESS first, playing music is second. Have a contract for EVERY event. Have insurance. Have a business plan. Pay your taxes on what you make. And remember, you are ALWAYS on stage, ALWAYS. The guy you cut off in traffic might be a potential client with a 5 figure budget for a DJ for his only daughter's wedding...
Turntables do require a little more care and feeding than other pieces of gear, but like anything, if you take good care of it, it will last a long time. Whatever you choose to buy, invest in good quality cases for transport. I have a TSA approved case, which means I can check my case as luggage on an airplane. I have seen guys transport their gear in the original cardboard boxes and I shudder to think what would happen if they either dropped it, or dropped something on top of it.
As technology has advanced, the cost of getting into this business has become much cheaper. My opinion is that has changed the view of the DJ business. It is a much less "exclusive" club now. A 14 year old kid can download the free home version of VDJ and steal a bunch of music from file sharing sites and all of a sudden he is calling himself a DJ. When I was 14, I DJ'd MY first gig. I used my home stereo patched into a rented PA. I played MY cd's that I PAID for. I joined Colombia House, and BMG and I mowed lawns and shoveled snow to pay for it. Now, 22 years later, if a person were to duplicate my library by buying from Itunes, they would have to invest $15,000. I don't know any 14 year olds with a spare 15 grand laying around.
My advice to you would be to contact the DJ companies in your area and tell them you want to learn the DJ business. Offer to be a roadie for them for free. Then shut your mouth and open your eyes and ears and soak up as much information as you possibly can before you just jump in feet first. There is always plenty of DJ work to be had from bars and clubs to weddings and school dances and everything inbetween. Make friends with as many of the DJ's in your area as you can and you will be surprised how much they help each other out. One guy is booked for a date and someone calls, I can guarantee you he will refer them to another DJ with who he has a solid business relationship.
Last thing, remember that this is a BUSINESS first, playing music is second. Have a contract for EVERY event. Have insurance. Have a business plan. Pay your taxes on what you make. And remember, you are ALWAYS on stage, ALWAYS. The guy you cut off in traffic might be a potential client with a 5 figure budget for a DJ for his only daughter's wedding...
Posté Sat 03 Sep 11 @ 6:22 pm